![]() ![]() Muntins are vertical members and when smaller can be called glazing bars.Wider bottom rails and lock rails to provide stiffness and strength in their joints with the stiles and the top rail is usually the same width as the stiles. Rails, again can be further defined by their position in the door.stiles, are the main side pieces of the door and can referred to as the lock stile and the hanging stile.This door does well to illustrate a few of the terms and joints that we use. it is a hybrid of a panel door and a glassed door, if the door was made either all glass or all panels, then the stile would be full width all the way. ![]() The sketch above shows a door that would have been used in offices and commercial buildings, but it is not too common these days. Paneled doors - Parts of a timber door, using a reduced or gun stock stile door as an example. It’s still more than enough for a good glue joint.Timber panels under the lock rail and glass above Those are always fun, freehanding a beading bit with a router. About ten years ago we had this huge kitchen that had different arch top doors. I think we've used our 1/2" freeborn set and used the groove cutter by itself to get the deeper groove. Here is an end view to show how the back side of the bead is removed to get full 1/2" deep groove. Here is a picture of the joint that might explain how it has both a haunched portion and a full-length stub tenon. I too cut mine on the table saw so that I can deepen the groove for a 1/2" effective tenon. I would have to do additional machining to get a minimum 3/8" deep groove (mortice) to use a 3/8" long tenon on my doors.Ī standard tongue and groove cutter would likely be inadequate for a beaded frame. 5" deep, after haunching the stile ends for a 1/4" diameter bead and its 1/16" quirk groove, that leaves only 3/16" depth left on the groove in that area. Hmmm, I wonder just how "stubby" that stub tenon is? My Freeborn stile and rail door set has the extra long tenon (1/2") and panel groove. I bought a good quality Whiteside bit for this then removed the bearing and ground off the bearing stud, allowing the bit to cut a flat next to the miter. Using the bit means that the bead cuts are true 45’s, and the bit can waste away the longer haunched part pretty quickly. To haunch the beads, I use a 45 chamfer bit and sled on the router table. All the big door manufacturers can do that type of door in cope and stick or mitered. I'm thinking I could also build the doors with mortise and tenon and route/haunch the bead at a 45 as long as I am extremely careful.Ī 1" thick door will give you more room to do an applied moulding. You should see how it will look from the picture below. You need to make the stiles and rails as you would normally do and then haunch out and 45 the bead the width of the rail, then just clip the bead on the rail. ![]() The bead must be applied after the stick and cope frames are assembled. The reason stick and cope won’t work is because the quirk and bead profile is on a plane rotated 90 degrees from the plane of the panel groove and cope surface. If you are talking about a "quirked bead" detail on the inside edge of the door frames, the only way I know of to do it without an applied molding is with a mitered door frame. How would I go about constructing this (without excessive grief) using cope and stick joinery? My only thought would be to make the beads as an inner applied moulding and miter them, which I'm sure would work, but I'd rather have the bead set in the stile/rail as I'm going to glaze the doors and I don't want to worry about glue creep. However, I'd prefer to have a cope and stick door. My initial thought was to make a mitered door, making the inside bead easy by routing it on the stile and rail stock before assembly. I am making the doors on my home kitchen cabinets and my wife has her mind set on a flat recessed panel door with an 1/8" bead on the inside edge of the stile and rail, with an edge treatment (some form of ogee most likely) around the perimeter of the door. ![]()
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